The supreme pinnacle of black and white

Introduction

During the year change period of 23-24 we spent a third time in China. Similar to August 2023 (see below), again to prospect for a tour aimed at spotting Giant Pandas. This time we succeeded in our aim. Not only were the conditions better, the duration of the trip in the area with Giant Panda potential was also longer. It is very hopeful and remarkable that it turned out not to be a once in a life time experience as third parties were also recently successful in spotting Giant Pandas in the same area after us. The knowledge that pandas are never seen by humans is seriously exaggerated. With enough time, effort and luck, spotting a Giant Panda seems really an option. But it’s not a walk in the park. The nearby accommodation is rather poor and continuous scanning and hiking is necessary to be successful. A trip for those in good physical shape with an open mind, the right attitude and no expectations in terms of luxury.

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part one of a series of atmospheric photos

: Giant Pandas inhabit forests at elevations of 2400 to 3000 m above sea level © Jan Kelchtermans

: A redder face and more distinguished rings on the tail are typical features for Red Pandas found in the Sichuan province of China © Jan Kelchtermans

: A few days later, a Giant Panda stands at exactly the same place from which our driver views the sky! Unbelievable but true! © Jan Kelchtermans

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part two of a series of atmospheric photos

: Dawn in Giant Panda area © Jan Kelchtermans

: With snow blanketing their habitat for as long as four months in the winter, the Golden Snub-nosed Monkey can withstand the coldest average temperatures of any non-human primate in the world © Jan Kelchtermans

: Integrating yourself with the environment and full concentration is necessary when looking for Giant Pandas in their natural habitat © Lennart Verheuvel

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part three of a series of atmospheric photos

: Despite the presence of fresh Giant Panda poo, effectively spotting the species in its impenetrable habitat is something entirely different © Jan Kelchtermans

: It is not easy to take photos with your heart beating in your throat and hands shaking from the adrenaline rushing through your body © Jan Kelchtermans

: Being physically fit is necessary for those who want to look for Giant Pandas as a steep climb to a viewpoint, from which a good overview of the nearby landscape, is essential. Provided that you can walk at your own pace, this may be possible for many © Jan Kelchtermans

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part four of a series of atmospheric photos

: Snow-capped peaks in the mountainous regions of Sichuan © Jan Kelchtermans

: Tufted Deer gets its name from the distinctive tuft of hair on the top of its head. Built as a slinker, their small body size, small antlers, elongated canines and white patterning are all adaptations to a secretive lifestyle in forests © Jan Kelchtermans

: When winter weather conditions force you to park and continue your search while walking © Jan Kelchtermans

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part five of a series of atmospheric photos

: Giant Pandas inhabit both coniferous and broadleaf forests with a healthy concentration of bamboos © Jan Kelchtermans

: Encounters with Red Pandas are not uncommon when looking for Giant Pandas © Jan Kelchtermans

: Caused by farming, forest clearing and other human development, Giant Pandas, are now restricted to the mountains © Lennart Verheuvel

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part six of a series of atmospheric photos

: Endlessly searching from vantage points for Giant Pandas that are sometimes found sleeping on thick stumps of trees to digest their meal that they collect on the ground © Jan Kelchtermans

: Special areas are home to special animals. The mountains of China’s Sichuan province and the Golden Snub-nosed Monkey are a typical example of such a unique combination © Jan Kelchtermans

: We witnessed the presence of Giant Pandas in areas with domestic cattle ; a species known to degrade the landscape © Lennart Verheuvel

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part seven of a series of atmospheric photos

: Despite being within the boundaries of the GPNP park, local farmers are present. Based on conversations we had in the field with them through our driver, it is likely that they are the ones who have the most encounters with Giant Pandas when traveling to and from their livestock © Jan Kelchtermans

: Red panda is the only recognised species in the genus Ailurus. It is traditionally divided into two subspecies: the Himalayan Red Panda (Ailurus fulgens fulgens ) and the Chinese Red Panda (Ailurus fulgens styani) © Jan Kelchtermans

: Regardless of luck, experience, knowledge and skills, having good optical material makes your search for a target species easier. In mountainous areas and at great distances, 10X50 binoculars are not an unnecessary luxury. A tripod with binocular adapter that ensures a stable image also contributes to this © Lennart Verheuvel

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part eight of a series of atmospheric photos

: Undergrowth completely eaten bare by livestock. The demarcated boundaries of the GPNP park are not a difficult obstacle for them. Despite this disappointing fact, we also found tracks and made an effective sighting of a Giant Panda © Jan Kelchtermans

: No matter how unlikely: always expect the unexpected! During this trip, suddenly out of the blue a massive Giant Panda stood on the outcrop where I prepared field lunch a few days earlier © Jan Kelchtermans

: Euphoria, joy and intense happiness after the target species of the trip was sublimely spotted! © Jan Kelchtermans

In search of the Giant Panda, mammal number one on earth – part nine of a series of atmospheric photos

: Shoot and push photography © Jan Kelchtermans

: Himalayan Griffon Vulture © Jan Kelchtermans

: Shoot and push photography © Jan Kelchtermans

: The largest of the Dendrocopos woodpeckers, the White-backed Woodpecker, has a broad distribution. It was really nice to come across them in China while looking for Giant Panda! © Jan Kelchtermans

: China is home to a fantastic range of pheasant species. A fourth visit to the country to spot this bird family; it’s something on the wish list for sure. An encounter with a large group of Blood Pheasants, ahead of us on the path, was undoubtedly an ornithological highlight during the GP quest © Jan Kelchtermans

: Wildlife holidays: they are not for sleeping in as mornings, evenings and nights are prime time for mammal spotting © Jan Kelchtermans

: Rural and remote China © Jan Kelchtermans

: Be prepared to eat with chopsticks! © Jan Kelchtermans

Previous prospecting for Giant Panda – August 2023

Last summer we divided the visit to the Sichuan province into different sub-areas: Ruorgai, Tanjiahe, Labahe and a specific area near Boaxing. Besides a first attempt for Giant Panda, also different areas hosting different target species where included.

Ruorgai, the Sichuan part of the Tibetan Plateau, was completely different from our visit near Yushu in 2019. The report of that remarkable trip can be found on this website. This applies to both the news section and reports.

: Play or ‘wrestling’ is the most common social interaction and occurs most frequently among young Himalayan Marmots © Jan Kelchtermans

Unlike this first visit, we now had a completely different experience in terms of wildlife and environment on the plateau near Ruorgai. It was extremely busy and everywhere there were areas demarcated by fences. It also turned out that many roads were under construction, areas under development and old quarries closed or reclaimed. Too much humanity, too little wildlife, so to speak. In addition, animals were less numerous or difficult to find. Bird wise, things went a lot smoother.

A stroke of luck was that spotting the main target species, Chinese Mountain Cat, was something that was accomplished quite quickly. For example, we made a fantastic observation of a mother with her two kittens. We also spotted another individual quite quickly at the start of a second spotlighting session we held in the area. Those who have cats on the list should therefore continue to visit this area. However, due to the previously described negative experiences in the area, we left a day earlier as planned. For Pallas’s Cat and Tibetan Wolf, Yushu is really a much better destination. Spending extra time there is something that, in our humble opinion, really yields more.

: Tibetan Macaque. Despite a relatively hairless face, they have a prominent, pale-buff beard and long whiskers © Jan Kelchtermans

Labahe was very beautiful but touristy. Moreover, the best part is only accessible by shuttle bus within limited hours. Driving around yourself before or after opening hours is something that is not possible. In my opinion this area is not a must. At least mammal-wise. After all, Red Panda, Labahe’s real target species, is quite easy in Boaxing. Be careful with troops of Tibetan Macaques! Incorrect feeding of these monkeys has a negative effect on their behavior.

: Sichuan Takin. According their prominent nose with a swollen appearance, they are also nicknamed as bee-stung moose and gnu goat © Jan Kelchtermans

Tangjiahe National Natural Reserve was a true revelation; especially during the night. Despite main stream and top level tourist facilities, you can just do your thing here before and after daytime hours. We also did our first of three Leopard Cat sightings here. Other mammals were also seen several times and closely when we did our spotlighting sessions here. Apart from Leopard Cat, sightings of Masked Palm Civet, Sichuan Takin, Chinese Goral, Reeves’s Muntjac and Malayan Porcupine were numerous. Both nights turned out to be a series of eyeshine from start to finish! It was also the only location where we got to see Ferret Badger and Hog Badger. Others also have seen Asian Golden Cats and Asiatic Black Bears here. We would love to come back for that!

: Reeves’s Muntjac aka the Chinese Muntjac, is a species of muntjac found widely in South-Eastern China © Jan Kelchtermans

: The white marks above and below the eyes extending to the the ears form a half-collar on the face of the Masked Palm Civet © Jan Kelchtermans

Our stay near the Boaxing location for the Giant Panda was a gamble. In any case, we were there too short and the area turned out to be too lush green. But the area is and was full of potential as, after all there are proofed sightings of the species from the pre-covid era. We also concluded this from cell phone images of a local farmer who used the same trail as us. He on the way to his Yaks in the higher parts of the park, we as an access road to the viewpoint that we used in the morning to scan the valley for the presence of Giant Pandas. A major problem turned out to be the bright light that falls into the valley once the sun appears over the slope. Further scanning is then no longer possible. We also kept in touch with a Frenchman who was in the area at the same time. Also looking for Giant Panda. At the very end of his visit, he managed to spot a Giant Panda high on a mountain slope on the other side of one of the valleys where the pandas are found here. And locals also see Giant Pandas in other places. It was through this Frenchman, and his chatting with locals at a local restaurant, that we finally realized our Giant Panda sighting during the next trip! Although we did not see a Giant Panda on our first visit to this area, Red Panda did cooperate with an individual that we found sleeping in a tree canopy for a long time. When it finally came down, we were able to photograph it beautifully.

Finally, an ultimate thank you to the people who made both my China trips possible for the purpose of spotting Giant Panda. In random order a major thanks to Ronan Felix, Jorn Van Den Bogaert, Daniel Dahan, Lennart Verheuvel, ZZ and Sid Francis!