Grizzlies

The spectacular phenomenon of salmon migration

The annual salmon migration and interaction with brown bears is a natural phenomenon that we all know from many documentaries on TV. In our humble opinion, it is a spectacle that you should see once in your life. With an EB5 tour in mind, we therefore made plans for a trip with the focus on observing this spectacle. That happened in 2022. The problem with planning this tour is the long journey to the specific locations where this phenomenon takes place during the fall. Moreover, these specific locations are quite remote. As a rule, they can only be reached by seaplanes or fast, expensive boats that sail from the mainland deep into a creek where the salmon spawn. If you add to this the monopoly of some local companies, then you know that the cost of such a trip is high. That’s why we looked for an affordable alternative for this type of trip.

: Bears can identify scents from great distances and with high precision. The structure of the nasal cavity results in a sense of smell that is at least five times larger than the one of humans © Jan Kelchtermans

Based on our own network of contacts, we therefore chose Canada as the flight destination for this trip. With a rental car we did an entire tour along the West Coast as well as the Rocky Mountains. A short Eastern extension was also added for observation of American Bison and Pronghorn, the sole antelope member in North America. By doing this, we gave the trip more vairity in terms of sub-areas and target species on site. It provided breathtaking scenery and ditto wildlife encounters. It is a journey from another dimension that can be compared to a visit to the Pantanal in South America and Svalbard in the Far North.

What seemed important to us was the time to plan the trip in the right period. We there fore chose the start of the salmon migration. After all, the spawning grounds still look untouched, they are not yet littered with salmon carcasses and, not unimportantly, the bears still have to make an effort to outwit what is relatively easy to obtain food.

: On the right you can see that, due to the rising temperature on earth, also Salmon Glacier, is showing decline. Despite this current worrying occurrence, the glacier still looks very impressive. This glacier is found on the Canadian side of the border with Alaska © Jan Kelchtermans

Salmon run facts

A salmon run is an annual fish (when they have reached sexual maturity) migration event where many salmonid species swim back against the stream to the upper reaches of rivers to spawn on the gravel beds of small creeks. Usually they return with uncanny precision to the natal river where they were born, and even to the very spawning ground of their birth. After spawning, all salmon die and the salmon life cycle starts over again with the new generation of hatchlings. Being anadromous, the salmon offpsring spend their juvenile life in rivers or lakes, and then migrating out to sea where they spend adult lives and gain most of their body mass.

: At the beginning of August, the salmon spawning grounds still look harmonious in a summery, green environment© Jan Kelchtermans

Grizzly Bears are classified as carnivores; however, they eat a wide variety of foods and are really omnivores. On the coast of British Columbia, Grizzly Bears forage mostly in estuaries, seepage sites and valley bottom wetlands where they feed on succulent plants available in spring like sedges, grasses and horsetail. Later, they switch to berries and then to spawning salmon in August and early September.

: Grizzlies come in plenty of other shades and patterns. This youngster is rather caramel-coloured. © Jan Kelchtermans

It’s a familiar scene to anyone who’s watched footage of brown bears catching salmon in North America and Canada: the apex predator standing in a rushing river and grabbing passing fish with their paws or jaw. During our observations we witnessed the way in which prey was usually killed when the bear grabs the rib cage over the back and delivered a bite to the back of the head, neck, face or nose. Young bears also pinned their prey to the ground and then immediately tear and eat it alive.

: A young Grizzly Bear pinning its prey to the ground before immediately tearing and eating it alive © Jan Kelchtermans

: An adult Grizzly Bear with a salmon clutched between its paws © Jan Kelchtermans

: A Grizzly Bear actively looking for salmon hiding under overhanging riverbank growth© Jan Kelchtermans

: Young bears tolerate each other in places where there is a lot of food available © Jan Kelchtermans

: Young bears often lack the experience in catching salmon compared to adults © Jan Kelchtermans

: Abundant food makes bears lazy © Jan Kelchtermans

: Adult bears are much more targeted and precise at catching salmon compared to young ones © Jan Kelchtermans

: A photo showing the typical characteristics of an adult Grizzly Bear: the dished face, short, rounded ears, and a large shoulder hump © Jan Kelchtermans

: Two grizzlies waiting patiently and eagerly for the meal to present itself © Jan Kelchtermans

: When newcomers arrive at the spawning site, there is always a moment of tension © Jan Kelchtermans

: At the start of the spawning season, bears still have to actively look for salmon © Jan Kelchtermans

: Sometimes there is a bit of romping in between the feeding parties ; especially between young individuals © Jan Kelchtermans

Apart from the bear spectacle, the West Coast of Canada has a lot of extras to offer, including American Black Bears, Orcas, Gray Whales, Humpback Whales and Sea Otters. The way in which you put together your trip can be based on these certainties. An itinerary is then more or less determined quite quickly. But these are well-trodden paths. After all, these species are unapproachable without a series of expensive boat trips which all agencies offer and can therefore also be booked as classic packages.

: Lacking a blubber layer, Sea Otters depend on their dense, water-resistant fur to provide insulation. To trap air and heat next to their skin, they spend a large portion of their days grooming and conditioning their fur © Jan Kelchtermans

: American Black bears are relatively numerous and tolerant of human activities. It results in being the most commonly encountered large carnivore in British Columbia © Jan Kelchtermans

: The speed, intelligence and agility of how Orcas hunt seals is very impressive © Jan Kelchtermans

If you also want to add other species and areas that offer less certainties but are also worthwhile, there are many options. Canada is home to three cat species: Bobcat, Canadian Lynx and Cougar. And on Vancouver Island you have the Sea Wolves and the endemic endangered Vancouver Island Marmot. A short Eastern extension into the Alberta also offers a rich surplus of American species not found in the Rocky Mountains or British Columbia. American Bison, Pronghorn and Canadian Beaver are easy targets.

: Females of Big Horn Sheep have smaller horns that curve slightly to a sharp point within the first four years of life © Jan Kelchtermans

: Modern American buffalo are identified in 2 subspecies. Compaired to Wood Bison, this Plain Bison has a smoother, more rounded hump, centered over its front legs. Also they have a more pronounced cape that ends at the shoulder © Jan Kelchtermans

: The diet of the Canadian beaver consists of buds, leaves, branches, tree bark and even fruit © Jan Kelchtermans

An itinerary also depends on available budgets. After all, it is never a cheap trip. There is the international flight, potential domestic flights, fuel for the many kilometers while on a fly and drive, ferries and many (boat) excursions. Accommodation is also an unavoidable expense. Also worth mentioning is the opportunity that camping offers. It is cheaper and you are not tied to hotels which are rather scarce in some areas. Camping is not difficult or an obstacle and a few days later you can enjoy the luxury of a hotel again.

: The black bear (Ursus americanus) is the smallest and most widely distributed member of the bear family found in North America. To conserve energy, they seek out concentrated food sources such as dense berry patches © Jan Kelchtermans

: The Great Gray Owl is an elusive bird that is not easy to find, despite its size. We were lucky in finding one hunting by being out in its habitat before dusk © Jan Kelchtermans

: Wood bison have large triangular heads, less defined shoulder capes and head hair is not wooly compared to Plains Bison © Jan Kelchtermans

So, combining some classic locations with less obvious ones seems original and fascinating to us. It does not make the journey fully predictable, more adventurous and open to surprises. Sporadic camping also offers many additional options and benefits. You will have to make choices anyway. And long beforehand. After all, areas are far apart, the summer months are extremely popular and nearby cities with millions of inhabitants are never far away. So, a once in a life time trip that you need to plan well in advance! But it is really worth the cost and planning. The scenery is spectacular and the animals superb!

: From British Columbia and Alberta in Canada, The Rocky Mountains stretch some 3000 miles all the way down to New Mexico in the U.S. The range offers dramatic wilderness traversed by numerous hiking trails and famous, scenic roads © Jan Kelchtermans

: Being allowed to camp on Vargas Island is a pure privilege. The experience of primeval nature is truly inspiring. The island is known for the presence of sea wolves. Overnight stays are only possible with the permission of the First Nations, Canada’s original population. © Jan Kelchtermans

: The Coastal Wolf, Sea Wolf or Vancouver Island Wolf is endemic to the coast of the Pacific Northwest. Due to their semi-aquatic lifestyle and almost entirely marine-based diet, they are a unique subspecies of Grey Wolf © I. Lewylle

: Totem poles, carved by First Nations, were an important symbol for BC Northwest Coast peoples. Sad to see how many of these nature-related status symbols are in complete disrepair in some places. Or how a culture of people close to nature is withering away © Jan Kelchtermans

: One of the most scenic highways in the world: The Icefields Parkway near the National Parks of Banff and Jasper. Giving yourself a full day to travel one-way is an understatement

: When talk turns to BC Vancouver Island’s natural wonders, especially where trees are concerned, it seldom takes long before the name Cathedral Grove is mentioned. Discovering this enclave of ancient, towering trees never fails to inspire © Jan Kelchtermans

: Yoho National Park in the Rocky Mountains, British Columbia, Canada. The park is a glaore of alpine lakes, cliffs, wooded trails and waterfalls. Wapta Falls, on the Kicking Horse River is just spectacular © Jan Kelchtermans