Highlights of five consecutive weeks of freelance spring tour guiding in Poland in search of enigmatic mammals
As is our annual tradition, we spent many weeks in the sub-Carpathians of Poland this spring. This was to fill in freelance guiding for Naturetrek. A British agency with whom we have built up a strong and professional relationship of trust in terms of cooperation. Every year we (Jan and Mark) guide their clients in and around the Bieszczady Mountains NP on the border between Poland and Ukraine. Early spring remains the peak period for observing large carnivores as well as all the by-catch of other mammals and bird species that occur there. The desolate nature and the absence of tourists during this time of year makes guiding or being guided there feel like a privilege. The area around the source of the San River, where you can find mainly deciduous and mixed forests, abounds in forest complexes intersected by few roads and many slopes. High peat bogs can be found in the upper San River valley. But also the buffer zone is of great importance to make observations of top species. This despite quite intensive felling of trees by forestry of the Polish government. More of this kind of forests where economy and ecology go hand in hand would only improve the biodiversity in Europe!
- A European beaver migrating upstream in the San River © Jan Kelchtermans
Moreover, after all those years exploring this unique area, we now know it like the back of our hand. And yet, we see and discover new interesting locations every year, where we also make observations that defy the imagination! Though, the result in terms of observations is always different every time. No tour is the same. This due to the open nature of the landscape as well as the flexibility of the animals present there. Also the weather is a significant factor influencing observations. This means that each tour is a challenge for both Jan and Mark when being are active in the area. New from this spring was that both guides now have a thermal camera. In addition, the customers could now also watch on an IPAD that connects via Bluetooth to the thermal equipment. Especially for observing wolves, this took the tours to an even higher level, as the disruptive nature of the spotlight is then eliminated.
In terms of wildlife, the observations of wolves this year were phenomenal; both in quantity and quality. After all, we realised more than thirty observations of five, possibly six, different packs in the area. The entire picture of patrolling individuals passed by: solitary animals, animals in loose association and entire packs. In terms of behaviour, we mainly remembered the howling that we could hear several times. This also applied to hunting wolves, playing wolves, wolves eating prey, wolves near houses as well as wolves that were spotted in the immediate vicinity of bears.
- An exceptionally posing and photographable wolf in the dark © Jan Kelchtermans
- A typical image of wolves running away once you use the flashlight © Jan Kelchtermans
- Bulging wolves after eating their freshly killed prey © Jan Kelchtermans
- ‘A where is Wally’ image of a lone, young wolf hunting a roe deer. Can you find them both? LOL © Jan Kelchtermans
- Resting and recovering from the hunt © Jan Kelchtermans
- An attempt to drag the carcass by a young, successfully hunting wolf nevertheless he shows clear signs of mange © Jan Kelchtermans
Despite the fact that bears were slightly less numerous compared to last year, every tour had its observations. The third tour in particular was phenomenal in terms of bears. Guide Jan, who also guides Finland’s mammals tour for Naturetrek, drew the similarity with bear sessions from hides there. With the difference that the carcasses present were those of bison and not of moose or reindeer nor of artificially laid out bait.
Bison were also present in good numbers. Especially towards the end, they came in large numbers from the forests to the meadows to forage on the first green vegetation. But also in forests, in the border region with Ukraine and along the San river this large herbivore was regularly observed.
- European bison © Jan Kelchtermans
- European bison © Jan Kelchtermans
- European bison © Jan Kelchtermans
- European bison © Jan Kelchtermans
Beavers and otters also turned out to be the well-known combination since the carnivore still seeks out the pools of the herbivore to fish there. A specific beaver location also turned out to be popular with a family of otters. During almost all tours we were able to spot and/or hear the animals there. Their wet tracks on the dry adjacent road surface also often betrayed their recent presence in the beaver pool.
- An otter leaving its resting place to forage in the San River and adjacent beaver ponds © Jan Kelchtermans
Eurasian lynx, the icing on the cake in terms of top species, is and remains the real challenge asking for an effort. Only if you spend many hours in the minibus once it gets dark, there is a chance to make an observation of this most wanted species. We succeeded during three of the five tours in doing so. Once such a lynx is found, the observation is usually also sublime. The three different individuals that were seen showed themselves in all their splendor. Wildcats, the other member of the feline family, was beautifully and repeatedly observed during all tours.
- An Eurasian lynx crossing the tarmac © Jan Kelchtermans
- Besides wildcats differ in fur pattern and size, the most distinctive feature that distinguish them from domestic cats, is their long bushy tail with a rounded black tip © Jan Kelchtermans
- A magical moment when this adult male lynx circled the car twice © Jan Kelchtermans
- An Eurasian lynx patrolling in the snow © Jan Kelchtermans
- An Eurasian lynx near its kill in a dense beech forest © Jan Kelchtermans
In terms of birds, the numbers of Ural owls were phenomenal this year. A few Pygmy owls proved to be photogenic and new for Naturetrek was the first visual sighting of a Tengmalm’s owl. You can read how this sighting was achieved in the fourth of the five reports that will soon be available on our site. This also applies to the hazel grouse that were discovered with the thermal cameras! Classics are and remain the nutcrackers, lesser-spotted eagles, hawfinches, black storks and several species of woodpeckers present in the area! And yes, Fire Salamanders were also present again. Almost always active during mild and rainy nights.
- Pygmy owl © Jan Kelchtermans
- Ural owl © Jan Kelchtermans
- Tengmalm’s: a small, chunky owl with a large, flat-topped head. This calling male was completely focused on finding a mate. Their thickly, white feathered legs and feet are very obvious in this picture! Heard from far away and approachable up to a few meters! © Jan Kelchtermans
- A lesser-spotted eagle looking for earthworms © Jan Kelchtermans
- Female hazel grouse © Jan Kelchtermans
- Fire salamander © Jan Kelchtermans
- White storks © Jan Kelchtermans
- A hoopoe looking for something edible in a creek not buried under fresh snowfall © Jan Kelchtermans
- Nutcracker © Jan Kelchtermans